I was more than excited to learn I would be reviewing the Curious Grape’s Sparkling Brunch. Number one, I love brunch. Number two I live close enough to Shirlington Village to walk. For those familiar with the Curious Grape or Shirlington you may remember that just two years ago the Curious Grape was a retail only wine and gourmet shop on the main strip of Shirlington Village, Campbell Ave.; but it is now a full service restaurant and wine bar complete with an espresso and coffee bar just around the corner from the old location but still offering wine, beer and gourmet items for retail sale. For those unfamiliar with the Curious Grape, you should familiarize yourself with it, quickly!
Since the long overdue Spring thaw is finally upon us, I chose to sit outside and I will proudly sport the farmers tan I acquired while there. Their deck is an excellent choice this time of year but it fills quickly, especially during brunch, so reservations are recommended. There is ample seating in the restaurant and at the bar and it even has a large private space near the kitchen for large / private parties. I was immediately taken by the really inventive and unique brunch menu, from the wine based bloody mary’s (more on that in a moment) which are the brain child of owner and Certified Wine Educator (CWE) Suzanne McGrath, to the food items like doughnut with wild boar; a staff favorite that sheds light on some of Executive Chef Eric McKamey’s creativity. The menu changes seasonally to incorporate fresh local ingredients (think Irish cheddar from PA) but offers plenty of options, both sweet and savory, that will please brunch traditionalists and the more adventurous as well. Another nice touch is the availability of half portions of the brunch entrees in case you’d like to try more than one, which I recommend you do.
I started brunch with the flight of their signature mary cocktails, each of the three has a unique country theme to it (Italy, Spain and Japan) complete with a wine base native to that country as opposed to the traditional vodka base. The presentation was amazing, and a sign of things to come. The Ciao Bella, my favorite of the three, had a prosecco base giving it a nice light body and the addition of balsamic vinegar and basil is evident from the first sip and gives you a little sweet to compliment the spice. To me it was almost like a palate refresher, and was definitely light enough to make a nice pairing throughout an entire meal. The Bloody Maria has an Iberian flair with a white port serving as the base and smoked paprika which is rather prevalent along with hint of cumin making this the spiciest of the three. Finally the Beijing Mary (yes I know Beijing is in China not Japan) has a sake base which helps balance the savory flavors of soy sauce and sesame oil. The oil makes it seem a bit heavier in terms of mouth feel, but for those who prefer a saltier version of a bloody, the soy flavoring is dominant and this is the one for you. All three are nicely and not overly spiced with no single flavor overpowering any other despite the contrasting flavors giving them all nice balance. They’re all also dangerously easy to drink which I am certain could turn your Sunday afternoon into an unproductive one if you’re not careful!
Bloody Mary’s
As I made my way around the world courtesy of the mary cocktails, my first appetizer arrived- the wild boar stuffed doughnuts. The three small house made doughnuts filled with lightly spiced wild boar is a perfect sized appetizer portion. The light dusting of powdered sugar compliments the spice of the boar and contrasts the savory flavors of hoisin sauce. The boar is presented in a pulled pork style stuffed in each doughnut and that combined with the pickled onion made me think of NC style bbq, but please note I am a North Carolinian! I particularly enjoyed pairing this dish with the Beijing Mary as I thought the soy married perfectly with the boar. Absolutely delicious!
Boar doughnuts
As I was halfway through the second doughnut, my baked to order mini soufflé arrived. The are three options to choose from with the soufflés, and each is baked to order, so I strongly recommend starting with an appetizer or selection from the pastry bar while your soufflé is prepared. That being said, it was well worth the brief wait. Anna, my waitress, who is expertly versed in all aspects of the menu and genuinely enjoys her job, an evident quality from the get go that absolutely makes the dining experience more pleasurable, chose the fromage a trois (three cheeses, get it!?!?) for me as I was torn between that and the rosemary goat soufflé. I was not disappointed with her selection. The three cheeses were all cheddars (Vintage Irish, Quicke’s English Farmhouse and Fiscalini from Modesto, CA) with a dash of shallots mixed in. The result was a light and airy creation that won’t overstuff you. The baked cheddar taste to me was similar to that of cheese straws, but not the store bought kind, much more like the ones your Mom or Grandma probably baked around the holidays. Savory doesn’t come remotely close to summing up this wonderful creation, and I again highly suggest you try one perhaps with a sweeter appetizer option like doughnuts or ricotta blintzes.
I decided to switch to wine to help compliment the soufflé and also in order to ensure I could coherently finish writing my notes for this review! The wine list is smartly organized and easy to navigate with wines uniformly organized from light to full body in each category (sparkling, light crisp whites, full bodied reds, etc.) and organic / biodynamic wines being listed in green. It’s clear that time and effort went into the construction of the list with many unique finds jumping off of its pages. The list also reflects responsiveness to their patrons as there are 30 bottles for under $30 per, which is sadly rare in restaurants these days and the Curious Grape is to be commended for this. I chose the 2012 Anne Amie Muller Thurgau from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I have never tried a Muller from the US, as this is a table grape native to Germany; did I mention unique finds??? I was extremely happy with the Muller both overall but more specifically in terms of complementing the baked cheddar goodness of the soufflé. It was different than the German version of Muller that I’ve had, as it had apricot and stone fruit aromas subtly leaving the glass. On the palate, I got some granny smith apple and even a little tropical fruit to go along with its medium body. It’s super dry with moderate acidity and what I perceived to be reasonable alcohol content giving it a nice overall balance and a longish finish. This was a perfect pairing with the fromage a trois that complimented the sharp cheddar flavors. It’s a unique find on a wine list, especially by the glass and I highly recommend you give it a try.
Since I went with more savory items to start with, I went all in on the sweet side for an entrée – the Austrian Pancake Soufflé. As if the name wasn’t good enough, this was by far my favorite part of brunch and was just sweet enough to make me forgo dessert. The dish comes in a small iron skillet with bacon and apple syrup with brandied raisins on the side. Again, just the word alone are enticing but I can assure you the dish tastes far exceed what printed words can properly convey. The first cut into the center of the soufflé released elegant maple aromas that are seemingly unending. The soufflé itself is light and airy and makes you feel like you’re eating maple flavored pancake batter. The brandy soaked raisins, both those in the skillet and those in the apple syrup, give a nice boozy tartness to offset the sweetness of the pancake so you know its not entirely dessert. The bacon was crisp and salty and reminded me of the flavor profile of good old VA Smithfield Ham. I had the small portion of the pancake soufflé, which made me a little sad that I didn’t have room for the full portion! This was simply excellent and I would rate it a must try on your visit to the Curious Grape and I would recommend a pairing with a nice rose (they have two by the glass).
Pancake soufflé
All in all, I was thoroughly impressed with the Curious Grape’s Sparkling Brunch; all aspects of it. The mary cocktails were unique and delicious, the food inventive and exhibited meticulous preparation and the wine list truly has something for everyone. The deck was pleasant and relaxing and those two thoughts occurred in my head throughout the meal and upon reflection later as well. I’d suggest going now while you can enjoy our quasi-spring weather and before it gets too oppressively hot out. As I sat back in the breeze and finished my meal, I couldn’t help but think that this was one of the best brunches I’ve had in the last couple of years. The outstanding food, drinks and service make you feel like you don’t have a care in the world and your only disappointment is not being able to sit there and enjoy all day. And honestly, isn’t that what a top notch brunch should leave you with?? I wholeheartedly recommend the sparkling brunch and commend all those at the Curious Grape that have had a hand in making it so darn good!
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